Cuvée 1844 M
Ostschweizerlandwein (Thurgau), Roland und Karin Lenz, 2018
«M» as in muse, mental temerity, mysticism, mastery and microscopic editions - an intensely noble Pinot Noir composition that only reveals its complex and spicy bouquet after extended maturing. This beguiling Pinot is not entirely mute and has a lot to say to the connoisseur. In the nose, it offers fine aromas of dried cranberries, rose hip jelly, cherries, coffee, dried herbs, forest soil, incense and peppery nuances. Underlaid by noble woods, it demonstrates its powerfully rich finesse and delicacy. On the palate it combines enjoyment animating freshness, spiciness and fruit, while the very fine tannins testify to perfectly integrated wood. An aroma spectrum of blood orange, sour cherry, roasted hazelnuts coated with light chocolate and toffee pampers the palate. Serve the «M» to ostrich filet, rustic bœuf bourguignon or noble venison. We are already in love with this Pinot Noir - but are also happily aware that it will become even more splendid!
|Origin:||Schweiz / Ostschweiz / Thurgau|
|Grape variety:||Pinot noir|
|Ripening potential:||1 to 8 years|
|Serving temperature:||16 to 18 °C|
|Food pairing suggestion:||Rabbit ragout with olives, Saddle of lamb fillet with herb jus, Succulent chicken breast with cream sauc, Vegetable cous-cous, Mushroom ragout, Risotto with ceps|
Switzerland – A small country with enormous diversity
Switzerland is famous for its banks, watches, and cheese, but not necessarily for its wine. The Swiss didn't invent wine, but they have been extremely open and curious to it. Wine culture arrived in what is now modern Switzerland via several routes: from Marseilles to Lake Geneva and the Lower Valais region; from the Aosta Valley through the Great St. Bernard Pass to the rest of Valais; from the Rhone through Burgundy, across the Jura Mountains to Lake Constance; and from Lombardy to Ticino, and then on to Grisons.
Eastern Switzerland: an intriguing puzzle
Eastern Switzerland has long been positioned on the northern rim of the climate zone where the cultivation of popular Swiss varieties is possible. Due to a warming climate, the vineyards of Aargau, Zurich, Schaffhausen, Thurgau and Graubünden are now in the zone where varieties such as Müller-Thurgau or Pinot Noir succeed excellently. But even long-established, almost-forgotten varieties such as Elbling, Räuschling and Completer are experiencing a renaissance.
Thurgau: a small wine canton shows contour
Although Thurgau is a smaller wine-growing canton, with a cultivation area of just 260 hectares, six different growing zones can be differentiated here. The heart of viticulture in Thurgau is the Thur valley, with its two prestigious sites, Ottenberg at Weinfelden, and Iselisberg near the canton's capital, Frauenfeld. The reference variety is very clearly Pinot Noir, from which a series of premium wines is produced today. But red and white specialties are also on the rise. And the long-spurned Müller-Thurgau variety is experiencing a renaissance.
Roland und Karin Lenz
In 1994, while Roland Lenz was still studying oenology, he and his wife Karin were able to acquire eight hectares of vines on the Iselisberg. It was a unique opportunity that they seized, even though they were toying with the idea of setting up their own business abroad, far from Switzerland. They actually did so later, but that's another story…
It is only in the last two decades that the Canton of Thurgau has really come to the attention of wine lovers as a wine-growing area. Its apple orchards and the apple juice (must) pressed from the picked fruit have always been popular, inevitably earning the canton its nickname of «Must India». Viticulture, however, has existed in this region for centuries.
Blueprint of the terroir
No other variety expresses its terroir as precisely as Pinot noir. It is a sensitive, fragile grape. But when it succeeds, it gives the world some of its very greatest wine plants. It especially excels in Burgundy, where it has been cultivated for at least 700 years. Even in the middle ages, it was considered so precious that it was kept separate from other grapes so as to not diminish its value. The finest examples are delicate and fragrant with aromas of cherries and red berries. With maturity, notes of forest floor, leather and truffles enter as well. An irresistible fruity sweetness still shines through, even after several decades. The Pinot noir does well in cool locations: in Switzerland and in Germany, where it is known as Blauburgunder and Spätburgunder respectively; in Alsace and in South Tyrol, in Oregon, New Zealand and Tasmania. Not least, it yields fantastic champagnes. It is a wonderful culinary companion. With its soft tannins and charming bouquet, it meshes with everything, from Güggeli and cheeses to fried fish.